Retro Heaven

Dressed to Kill

First edition 1996

Dressed to Kill-James Bond The Suited Hero was first published in 1996 during the ‘reign’ of Pierce Brosnan whose style was a modern take on the Sean Connery era thanks to the combined efforts of Lindy Hemming and Brioni of Italy.

Brosnan’s reprisal of the role was, from a fashion perspective a change in style from the gritty two film period of Timothy Dalton in the late eighties whose wardrobe choices had echoes of latter day Roger Moore. Six years after the final Dalton outing, Brosnan brought a suaveness back and this book, published in Italy celebrated James Bond as a style icon.

Pierce Brosnan wearing Brioni

The book is a series of chapters written by Jay McInerney, Nick Foulkes, Neil Norman and Nick Sullivan along with an introduction by Cubby Broccoli, the most important figure in the franchise other than the creator Ian Fleming.

Sean Connery with his own personal Tailor Anthony Sinclair in Conduit Street, London

McInerney sets the seen for Bond’s arrival on the big screen with Dr. No in 1962. Writing from an American perspective we are reminded of the period during the Cold War when Bond was seen as a wonderful tool in the culture war between east and west. Fleming’s books had a clear effect on McInerney as a boy who was also introduced to The Man from U.N.C.L.E around the same time. Bond arrived at a golden time in America and at the beginning of a cultural shift in Britain in which style and fashion would become increasingly important to younger people.

Timothy Dalton with Carey Lowell in Licence to Kill, 1989

Each incarnation of Bond brought a different look and feel to the franchise. Roger Moore brought an increasingly whimsical approach to the role and often the clothes would match the humour. He had the longest run of them all if you discount Never Say Never Again (who wouldn’t?) and much of his wardrobe would prove easily matched to the 70s and 80s whereas Connery and Brosnan brought a more timeless style to their characters.

Sean Connery and Pierce Brosnan

The contributing authors know their subject matter and it shows throughout the book. Because of its publication date it ends with Pierce Brosnan but it’s still four decades worth of changing styles showing the evolution of a style icon which always had a look that was copied over and over again. The book showcases the designers with a stunning array of photographs, many seldom seen before of the actors being fitted as well as famous cinema stills, posters and promotional shots.

Cubby Broccoli, Roger Moore and Barbara Bach, The Spy Who Loved Me, 1977

Stylistically I found Brosnan’s Bond a welcome return, back came the Aston Martin DB5 in Goldeneye and in came sharp suits from Brioni. Brosnan is quoted: “The wardrobe is the essential part of playing James Bond, when I wasn’t wearing a suit it was more difficult to feel like James Bond” This book celebrates the nuances in the styles from the formal dinner suit to the navy blazer, polo shirt to the safari suit and everything in between. Bond was not the first suited hero but he’s probably the last and we should celebrate all that it has given us, for better or worse.

Sean Connery and Danielle Bianchi in From Russia with Love
George Lazenby in his only appearance as Bond
Roger Moore with tailor Doug Hayward
Brioni’s master tailor Checchino Fonticoli with Pierce Brosnan

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